Here are some pics of some mad tunning to Nissan Pulsar GTiR\’s

nissan Pulsar GTI-R
sr20dett
mods:
precision turbo PT67 @ 24 PSI
GREDDY 1.2MM
CP PISTON STOCK SIZE 86MM
full set ARP stud
custom intercooler pipe
BC cam 272 in and ex
BC Dual spring & titanium retainer
LINK ECU G4 computer withe map sensor 5 PAR
OS GIKEN R2CD twin plate
powerenterprise 1000 cc injector two nozzle
Z32 fule pump
SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator
B&M short shifter
HKS ssq BOV
TURBO SMART Dual Stage Boost Controllers
GREDDY oil temp & water & oil presser Gauge
autometer gauges fule presser and boost
custome turbo headers and down pipe
5zigen cat back exaust
KSPORT suspension
NISMO front and rear sway bars
MSD 6AL with Blaster 2 Coil
NGK iridum spark plug heat range 9
snow performance Stage 2 water injection
innovate Wideband kit
Turbonetics Evolution Wastegate
GD Oil Catch Can
G Spec crank pulley & Oversized Water pump pulley
JWT adjustable Cam Gears

tuned by : abdelwahed

This is the second dyno run of our (eventually) 600bhp Nissan Pulsar GTI-R for TopMotors.com

377bhp @ 1Bar..On a basic map lol…More to come

Nissan Pulsar GTi-R pulls a respectable 387.7bhp and 326.4lbft at the fly. 331.2bhp at the wheels.

Nissan Pulsar GTI-R Over 500 HP and 700 NM on the wheels

4wd fun in the snow

Treated to a quick spin in a Nissan Pulsar. For 2.5k and with 300bhp you can\’t go wrong

2)Remove the lower section of the engine mount that is fixed to the block,as this greatly increases the space for you to work and iirc you can get at all the bolts on the pump bar one.

3)When you have replaced the pump an are ready to put the pulley back on,use a thin cable tie through one of the holes in the pulley and one of the holes in the pump and pull it tight,this will hold the pulley in place while you get the other three bolts in.Then remove the cable tie for the fourth bolt.

4)Re-tighten the bolts on the pulley after re-placing the belts so you can overtighten the powersteering belt to stop the pulley moving.

HOW TO:

You will need a tube of \’Instant Gasket\’ or water pump sealant and yo may as well change the drive belts whilst they are off.. only bout £5 each

I chose to disconnect the bottom rad hose to drain the system and then push the car into the garage before starting, this is so you dont have to lay in coolant

Chock the back wheels.
Remove the front drivers side wheel using an axel stand to support the car, try not to have the car too high on the axel stand as you will need to raise and lower the engine using a jack which may prove difficult if the car is too high.
Remove the Inner wing splash guard (drivers side) and splash tray under the engine.

Inside the engine bay remove the coolant expansion bottle.
Slacken off the alternator drive belt tensioner and remove the belt.
Slacken off the power steering pump belt tensioner and remove the belt, i found it easiest to use a long extension bar and ratchet to reach teh tensioner. The PS tensioner slackens off by screwing the tensioner bolt inwards rather than outwards like the Alternator/aircon tensioner.
The Drivers side engine mount is removed to allow the engine to be raised and lowered to get to the pump bolts easier.
Place a jack with a good size block of wood under the engine sump and gently jack the engine up until the jack is just starting to take the weight of the engine.
Where you removed the Coolant bottle you will see an engine mounting..
Firstly slacken off the single bolt that passes through the middle by half a turn.
You will also see three bolts holding the mount to the engine, remove these three bolts making sure that the jack is taking the weight of the engine.. The three bolts should not be forced when undoing, if the are too tight once slackened off then raise the jack slightly to take the stress off of the bolts..
remove the centre mounting bolt and remove mount.
Once this mounting is off lower the engine bit by bit, stopping to check clearance as you lower it. The engine can be lowered roughly 4 inches.
With the jack locked look into the wheel arch and you will see the bottom of the water pump, just to the top left of the Crank pulley.

It is easier to remove the water pump pulley before removing the pump.
I used a lever to stop the pulley turning whilst loosening the 4x 10mm bolts that hold the pulley to the pump, once the bolts are undone teh pulley just drops off.
With pulley removed you will see 4 of the 7 bolts that hold the water pump to the block, using a small (3/8 drive) ratchet undo them.
Once undone use the jack to raise the engine, making sure again that nothing is trapped or squashed, keep jacking up about 3 inches higher than the orginal height or just before the plenum chamber touches the bulkhead.
You will be able to see the top 3 bolts for the pump now, undo them.

Remove the tensioner for the PS belt, 2 water pump bolts hold it on and one single bolt onto the PS pump.

Before removing the water pump i slid the PS reservoir out of its slot and unbolted the bracket which holds the pipes to the inner wing/chassis, this gives you more room to get the pump out..
Once you have removed all of the bolts from teh pump, give each bolts thread a clean with a wire brush to remove any old sealant.

Although the Pump is unbolted it is still held on quite tight by the old sealant, using a long drift and a small hammer give the pump a tap on the shaft area to crack the seal.
With the engine still raised withdraw the pump, the PS pipes need a little bit of movement to remove the pump from the top.
As far as i am aware the pump will not come out the bottom (i did try)

Once the pump is removed make sure that the new pump matches it
Where the pump mates with the block will be old sealant, using a sharp stanley blade (be careful) remove any traces of old sealant, making sure you do not score the mating surface.. Use a cloth to wipe of the sealant that is removed.

once you are happy that the block surface is clean apply approx 2/3mm thick sealant onto the new water pump sealing areas, do not over apply the sealant as any excess sealant will get trapped in the coolant system.

I found it best to do a \’dummy run\’ of getting the old pump back in without touching any parts to which way would be best to fit the new pump, without getting sealant everywhere.. you will see what i mean when you get to this point!!

Once you are happy to replace the pump and the sealant is applied correctly and evenly have a pump bolt handy to screw in once you have located the pump.
Try not to lose any sealant whilst relocating the pump back into the engine bay as this will not only make your engine bay look untidy but it will also mean the seal may not be adequate.
Once the pump is located properly screw in the bolt at the top of the pump by hand, once you have done this replace the PS belt tensioner and screw in the other two top bolts by hand but not ratchet tight.
Making sure the pump will not dislodge, lower the engine again so that you can get to the pump lower bolt holes, screw in the 4 remaining bolts by hand and then tighten them up using a ratchet, do not over tighten them (they aint wheel nuts) and then raise the engine back up again to tighten the top bolts.

Now that the pump is secured, refit the pulley onto the pump using the same method to undo it.

lower jack so that engine is just below original height and locate engine mounting, screw the centre bolt through the mounting by hand but do not tighten yet.
Raise engine slightly to line up the mounting holes with the engine and screw in 3 mounting bolts. Tighten all 4 mounting bolts with ratchet.

Lower jack slowly to let engine mounting take the engine weight and then remove jack.

replace PS/water pump belt and tighten belt by screwing tensioner outwards (anti clockwise) until belt is correct tension.
Replace Alternator belt and tension correctly.
Replace coolant expansion bottle.

Replace bottom rad hose and refill coolant system using correct ratio of Antifreeze, and bleed.

Thanks to Shaun at Nissangtir.co.uk